Chikan Embroidery of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh

Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh, was and is the centre of chikan embroidery, renowned for its timeless grace and its gossamer delicacy, a skill more than 200 years old --- exploited, commercialis but not dead. In fact, the craft is alive and struggling to regain some of its former beauty and elegance. Chikan embroidery is done on fine cotton fabric.

The garments are first stitched and then embroidered, whereas skirts, saris, and table linen are first embroidered and then finished. A study of the origin of chikan reveals that this form of embroidery had come to India from Persia with Noor Jehan, the queen of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir. The word chikan is a derivative from the Persian word 'chikaan' meaning drapery. Some, however, insist that the craft migrated from Bengal. What we know is that chikankari came to Oudh when Mughal power declined in Bengal and the artisans moved to the Oudh durbars, seeking employment and patronage.


The design to be embroidered is printed on the fabric with wooden blocks, using fugitive colours, which are commonly made by mixing a glue and indigo with water. For extra fine designs, brass-blocks are sometimes used. In chikan, the needle is held in the right hand while inserting it into the fabric, the left hand supports and controls the thread so that the stitches take the right shape. In traditional chikan no frames were used (though they are used now).

The portion of the cloth to be embroidered is placed over the index finger of the left hand, supported by the rest of the fingers, leaving the thumb free. The needle is pulled away from the embroiderer who starts from the nearest end and finished at the farthest end.


There is a discipline and method in the application of the stitches. The darn stitch is worked on rough cotton fabric to fill angular designs and to cover the surface of the fabric, while satin stitching is done exclusively on delicate fabrics like silk, muslin, or linen. In chikan some stitches are worked from the wrong side of the fabric, while others are worked from the right side. It is however unique in its discipline in as much as stitches designated for a particular purpose are used only for that purpose --- they are not replaced by other stiches. For example, the chain stitch (zanjeera) will only be used for the final outline of a leaf, petal, or stem.

Different specialists work with different types of stitches. For example, open work or jaali is not done by embroiderers who do the filling work - each worker completes his/her bit and the fabric is then sent to the next embroiderer. The wages for each job are fixed separately.

Chamba Rumal Embroidery of Himachal

Chamba region has highly skilled craftsmen. The Chamba rumal embroidery flourished in the princely hill states of Chamba, Kangra, Basholi, and other neighbouring provinces. The rumals are usually square pieces of cloth, beautifully embroidered, and used to cover gifts and offerings. Traditionally the rumals were exchanged between the families of the bride and groom. These rumals were embroidered by upper-class women.


Raas mandal and the Krishna motif are very popular motifs and have huge demand. The cloth used was usually unbleached muslin (very thin white cloth). The embroidery form was a double satin stitch locally called do-rookha, the beauty of which lay in it being reversible --- equally beautiful on both sides.

Banjara Tribal Embroidery & Mirror Work

The nomadic tribe or Banjara are believed to have descended from the gypsies of Europe thousand of years ago and settled in the deserts of Rajasthan. They are among the most colourful tribe in India because of their dresses and jewelry. This nomadic group practises the craft of Banjara tribal embroidery and mirror work. They make beautiful fabric which is characterized by vibrant colours, ornate embroidery and mirror work. Products made by banjara embroidery includes bags, belts, purses, cushion and pillow covers, bed spread, quilts apart from salwar suits, skirts, blouses etc. The embroidery sometimes also uses silver, brass, cowries, animal bones and gold.