Chikan Embroidery of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh
Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh, was and is the centre of chikan embroidery, renowned for its timeless grace and its gossamer delicacy, a skill more than 200 years old --- exploited, commercialis but not dead. In fact, the craft is alive and struggling to regain some of its former beauty and elegance. Chikan embroidery is done on fine cotton fabric.
The garments are first stitched and then embroidered, whereas skirts, saris, and table linen are first embroidered and then finished. A study of the origin of chikan reveals that this form of embroidery had come to India from Persia with Noor Jehan, the queen of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir. The word chikan is a derivative from the Persian word 'chikaan' meaning drapery. Some, however, insist that the craft migrated from Bengal. What we know is that chikankari came to Oudh when Mughal power declined in Bengal and the artisans moved to the Oudh durbars, seeking employment and patronage.
The design to be embroidered is printed on the fabric with wooden blocks, using fugitive colours, which are commonly made by mixing a glue and indigo with water. For extra fine designs, brass-blocks are sometimes used. In chikan, the needle is held in the right hand while inserting it into the fabric, the left hand supports and controls the thread so that the stitches take the right shape. In traditional chikan no frames were used (though they are used now).
The portion of the cloth to be embroidered is placed over the index finger of the left hand, supported by the rest of the fingers, leaving the thumb free. The needle is pulled away from the embroiderer who starts from the nearest end and finished at the farthest end.
There is a discipline and method in the application of the stitches. The darn stitch is worked on rough cotton fabric to fill angular designs and to cover the surface of the fabric, while satin stitching is done exclusively on delicate fabrics like silk, muslin, or linen. In chikan some stitches are worked from the wrong side of the fabric, while others are worked from the right side. It is however unique in its discipline in as much as stitches designated for a particular purpose are used only for that purpose --- they are not replaced by other stiches. For example, the chain stitch (zanjeera) will only be used for the final outline of a leaf, petal, or stem.
Different specialists work with different types of stitches. For example, open work or jaali is not done by embroiderers who do the filling work - each worker completes his/her bit and the fabric is then sent to the next embroiderer. The wages for each job are fixed separately.
Chamba Rumal Embroidery of Himachal
Chamba region has highly skilled craftsmen. The Chamba rumal embroidery flourished in the princely hill states of Chamba, Kangra, Basholi, and other neighbouring provinces. The rumals are usually square pieces of cloth, beautifully embroidered, and used to cover gifts and offerings. Traditionally the rumals were exchanged between the families of the bride and groom. These rumals were embroidered by upper-class women.
Raas mandal and the Krishna motif are very popular motifs and have huge demand. The cloth used was usually unbleached muslin (very thin white cloth). The embroidery form was a double satin stitch locally called do-rookha, the beauty of which lay in it being reversible --- equally beautiful on both sides.
Banjara Tribal Embroidery & Mirror Work
The nomadic tribe or Banjara are believed to have descended from the gypsies of Europe thousand of years ago and settled in the deserts of Rajasthan. They are among the most colourful tribe in India because of their dresses and jewelry. This nomadic group practises the craft of Banjara tribal embroidery and mirror work. They make beautiful fabric which is characterized by vibrant colours, ornate embroidery and mirror work. Products made by banjara embroidery includes bags, belts, purses, cushion and pillow covers, bed spread, quilts apart from salwar suits, skirts, blouses etc. The embroidery sometimes also uses silver, brass, cowries, animal bones and gold.
Patch Work of Gujarat
Gujarat appliqué is based on the patchwork. Various coloured and patterned fabric is cut into different shapes and sizes. These pieces are then sewn together on fabric having plain background. The appliqué work of Gujarat is manly done on household use items. Dazzling motifs of birds and animals can be seen in bright colours. The stitching of the patterns is not hidden, infact, it is done with gaudy shades and adds to the art.
Patch Work of Tamil Nadu
The word Applique is a French term and is a technique where in several pieces of coloured fabrics is superimposed in patches to give a decorative effect. The patches are then sewn to the base fabric to give specific form and designs. In contrast to this patch work is a craft in which several pieces of clothes are stitched together to form a large piece. Sometimes it is done to repair a damaged cloth.
During festival processions these are usually found on the temple chariots for covering the horizontal beams. Applique work is also done on long tubular pieces which look like long pillars hanging down the sides of the chariots. Usually these are made of cotton and depict images of Durga, Shiva, Ganesha and Kartikeya in bright vibrant shades of red, white, black, blue and yellow.
Patch Work of Orissa
The city of Puri on the banks of Bay of Bengal is not only famous for its beach but is also an important religious town. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims throng to this place to pay a visit to the renowned temple of Lord Jagannath. During Rath Yatra of Lord Jagannath sister Subhadra and Brother Balbhadra vast canopies are required. The canopies are a representation of the beautiful craft of Applique and Patch work of Orissa. It's an important traditional craft and followed in Bhubaneshwar and its adjoining areas.
The process involves making a large piece of cloth by joining figurative animals, flowers, geometrical shapes and motifs. This large cloth can then be converted into useful products. Apart from temples activities, the canopies are used in festivals and pavilions. The Pipli village, which is close to Puri is the centre for some lovely applique and patch work of Orissa. The applique craft is also very popular in Puri. The products included lamp shades, garden and beach umbrellas, kitchen accessories, bed and table linen, handbags and other furnishing items.
Chikan Kari Embroidery
Chikan Kari is said to have a divine evolution. Phulkari of Punjab is an essential component of any religious or cultural ceremony. It is not just the religious patterns that make a style religious, the very process and art of embroidery was at one time considered divine and a religious act.
Chambal Rumal Embroidery
Chambal Rumal, the artistic embroidered representation of the Pahari miniature paintings is influenced by Mughal miniatures. They are called rumals because the cloth is invariably square. The subject of the embroideries have been based mainly on religious themes comprising Hindu deities, floral motifs, birds and animals. The Raas Mandal and Krishna theme have been particularly favored.
Orissa's Applique Embroidery and Mirror Work
Orissa's Applique Embroidery and Mirror Work is all based on religion. The Puri Rath Yatra, the umbrellas, the fans all are the symbols of devotion to Lord Krishna. The ceremonial cloth and other fabric products used during the famous Rath Yatra are all embroidered with religious symbols in colorful threads and gold and silver or other metallic threads.
Karnataka's Kasuti Embroidery
Karnataka's Kasuti Embroidery is based on religious themes. Whether the embroidery is on a saree or a ceremonial cloth, the themes are the same, the symbols are modified to give a new look and a crafters' imagination plays a great role in this art.
Swarovski Embroidery Work
Swarovski is the luxury brand name for the range of precision-cut lead crystal glass and related products.
Kashmiri Embroidery
Kashmiri embroidery or kashida is colorful and beautiful as Kashmir itself. Embroiders often draw inspiration from the beautiful nature around. The colors the motifsof flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. are the most common ones. The whole pattern is created using one or two embroidery stitch styles.
Phulkari Embroidery Work
The traditional Punjabi embroidery art is phulkari. The pulkari word means growing flowers. This embroidery form, true to its name includes only floral motifs in bright colors. There is sanctity to the art form as the canopy over Guru Granth Sahib, the religious book of the Sikhs is of phulkari.
The phulkari with very intricate floral patterns is called Bagh that means garden. It is primarily used on the odhanies and dupattas. It is considered auspecious for the bride and for the new born. It is worn on ceremonies. Phulkari for some time now is being used in home furnishings specially wall hangings, sofa throws and other soft furnishings
Chikankari Embroidery Work
Chikankari was nurtured in Uttar Pradesh and primarily in Lucknow. The work is done on very fine muslin and now on georgette and chiffon and other fine fabrics. It is more suited for the outerwear but these days there are certain exclusive creations using Chikan work in Cushion covers, pillow covers and table linen. Partition curtains with the chikan embroidery are fast gaining ground.
Kundan Embroidery Work
Kundan work is essentially Indian and it was brought to Rajasthan from Delhi during the Mughal period. Craftsmen from all over the country came to Jaipur, Bikaner, Udaipur and Jodhpur, under the patronage of royal houses. Numerous royal houses from Rajasthan, encouraged and patronized craftsmen to create exquisite kundan work on silver and gold. The entire technique of Kundankari lies in the skillful setting of gems and stones in gold, which is rarely solid.
Patchwork
Patchwork in different shapes and size appear on many early American quilt. Even today it is a fashion.This particular one is based on the eight-point Lone Star design. It will brighten your sitting room or study room. If you are using simple patchwork, plan your design on a paper with pencils before beginning your work.
Kantha Embroidery Work
Kantha is basically close running stitch filled inside a design. Though the work is simple, the final appearance is beautiful. Different shades of thread; double shade or single shades can be used aesthetically according to your taste.
Chicken Embroidery Work
Chicken Work is almost similar to Shadow work. Like Shadow work, Closed Herring Bone stitches are done on the wrong side of the fabric but the stitches are not done as perfectly as in Shadow work.
In chicken Work, stitching is always done with white cotton rough thread and the fabrics used is thicker than those used for Shadow Work - usually cotton. Though both follow the same stitch they have a totally different appearance.
Mirror Work for Embroidery
Mirror work is the art of stitching mirrors on to the fabric in a variety of designs. Mirrors of different shapes (Square, Diamond, Round etc) and sizes are used for Mirror work. Mirror work can be done on any fabric in sarees, blouse pieces, skirts etc. After fixing the mirror you can stitch beads around to make it more attractive. Sequence is a plastic silver coated material available in different shapes and size. This is also used instead of mirrors.
Materials Required for Mirror Work
Mirrors or sequence of desired shapes & sizes Embroidery Thread Needle There are different ways of fixing mirrors of different shapes to the fabric. Two or three strands of thread are taken to fix mirrors or sequence.
Aari Embroidery Work
Aari embroidery is done primarily by the Muslim cobbler community in India. The designs are of Mughal origin since the art was at one time patronized by them. By using subtle gradations of color the figures and motifs in the designs can be highly representational. Aari at times is also called zari work. The zari thread or the metallic thread if quite commonly used in this style of embroidery. It is done with colored thread as well using color gradations to make the motifs and figures highly representational.
Bead Embroidery
Bead embroidery can be one of the most expressive, most satisfying methods of beadwork you will do. It's like painting with beads; forms create themselves, patterns flow and the beads know where they want to be. It is almost subconscious, you will be surprised at how it evolves. From century old traditions to the modern world culture, the style of beaded embroidery has evolved from simple designs to creatively sewn beaded embellishments techniques. The need to beautify both garments as well as household objects with precious and semi precious stones and glass beads has made this embroidery very popular not onlyin India but the western world as well. In India special bead work embroidery of the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan are very famous.
Types of Beads Used
* Glass Beads
* Wooden Beads
* Metallic Beads
* Plastic Beads
Zari Embroidery
Zari is the metallic yarn, made of pure silver. Originally, zari was manufactured in Yeola; Surat now being another zari-producing center. Initially, zari used in making Paithani was drawn from pure gold. However, silver is the affordable substitute today.
Zari is a type of thread made of fine gold or silver wire used in traditional Indian and Pakistani garments. This thread is woven into fabrics, primarily made of silk to create intricate patterns. It is believed this tradition started during the Mughal period. Zari is also a method of traditional textile weaving in Iran. Zari is the main material in most silk sarees and ghararas. It is also used in other garments made of silk, like skirts, tops and vettis.
Zardosi Embroidery
Zardosi is the oldest form of embroideries done in India. Its existence is from mughal age. Many types of embroideries have lost there identities in this designer world but zardosi is an form of embroidery which always attracts the designers and manufacturers. Indian women still loves her zardosi saree and consider it to be the most important attire in her wardrobe for functions and occasions.
Zardosi is a form of embroidery done by golden metal wires. For this form, embroidery saree is first tucked in a frame an then number of "kaarigars" design beautiful intricate patterns on the fabric through metal threads. This is an very timetaking and hard work. Zardosi sarees are not only famous in India but it has a vast demand in countries outside India too.
Indian Zardosi has made its place in the world and been considered as one among the beautiful embroidery styles including Chickan, Kashmiri, Gujrati and Sindhi embroideries. It is one of the most expensive types of embroidery because not only is the fabric and the material used expensive but also the labourers follow a system of wages on hourly basis. Even though zari work is very expensive, the beauty, the glamour and versatility have made it the most widely used embroidery all over the world. The labour is cheap in India when compared to other parts of the world.
Most common patterns done by the Karigars are mangoes, flowersand leaf patterns.
Overview of Embroidered Sarees and Designs
The Embroidered Sarees in India are hugely admired among the Indian women as they display the intricacy and style in their designs. Artisans are settled in different parts of India and, thus, the embroidered sarees created by them have ethnic variations.
Embroidered sarees are mainly made in the western region and display a rich embroidery (bharat) tradition. Much of these renowned embroideries are created by ethnic groups like the Rabari and Sodha Rajputs. The artisans are adept in making sarees with metallic-thread embroidery and these types of sarees are commonly found in the west. However, most of this embroidery work is created throughout northern India as well.
The embroidered sarees are distinguished for their designs due to the threads that are used in the embroidery work. The Indian artisans use three types of metallic-thread embroidery two of which use gold-wrapped threads called either `kalabattun` which was used by the artisans of earlier times or `zari`. One style, muka, requires thick zari to be coiled on the surface and couched with silk, and is usually worked on heavier silks and satin fabrics. Another style of embroidery work, called `kamdani` and sometimes `kalabattun,` has metallic threads embroidered directly into the fabric with both the zari and ground cloth. This embroidery work is done with finer and lighter metallic threads than in muka work. These embroidery works are created on chiffon and georgette that have gained popularity in the local as well as in the national market scenario. This type of embroidery work is called zardozi or zardoshi work. The third type of metallic embroidery is easier to distinguish because it uses flattened gold or silver wire (badla) that is pulled through the fabric. In this embroidery work small raised metallic `dots` or `knots` are distributed over the cloth to form floral and foliate patterns. Patna had a strong commercial zardozi embroidery tradition for many years, serving local aristocrats and other wealthy patrons during the nineteenth century.
The Embroidered Sarees have a profitable market. As the artisans have started creating embroidery work on very contemporary dress materials, the market demand of these sarees have increased to a great height. The traditional touch amalgamated with modernity creates a fusion in the Indian saree tradition. In recent times, the predominant local commercial embroidery offered in most towns and markets is machine embroidery. Although it is regarded by purists as of a lower order to handwork, much of it is finely made, in a variety of small detailed patterns.
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